We hit Lisboa in earnest yesterday, criss-crossing the city with a few small errands in mind that framed our direction and day. I needed to replace my shoes that had a hole in them, and Xavier wanted to go back to this hipster barbershop (filled with cute guys) where he had gotten a good cut last time he was in Lisboa. We hopped on the storied 28 tram and took it to its terminus, at which point we thought we would stay on as it started its route again, but the very surly driver yelled at everyone to “Get. Out.”. From there, we meandered down through a park, and through the neighborhoods of Principe Real, Biarro Alto, and Chiado. Then we attempted to find Xavier’s barbershop and finally did after a fair amount of wandering around, but it was not open yet, so we went to find my shoe store to replace my shoes before returning to the barbershop. We all decided to get beard trims or shaves, and took a seat to await our turn. We figured it would be quick because there were two guys working there, no one in line, and the guys in the chairs seemed very close to being done. But no, these haircut guys are like monks performing a slow motion ritual, and we waited perhaps an hour before the first of us got into the chair, and I think we sat in that shop for an insane total of about 3 hours. That said, my beard trim and neck shave was heavenly, and we all felt duly pampered by the time we left. We then made our way to a local churrasqueira for a late and meaty lunch, at which point it began raining and we hopped from coffee shop to store to awning before finally making it back to the apartment a bit soaked.
We took a nap and then headed out to dinner at around 10 pm, because this is a very late culture and nothing gets started until quite late. And after that we made a tour of the entire length of the Rua da Barraca and its many small bars before finding a taxi and heading back to Alfama where we are staying.
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I landed at the airport in Lisbon yesterday, where I was greeting by Stijn and Xavier who had arrived from Amsterdam. We got checked into our AiBnB apartment, which…leaves a lot to be desired, especially for the price. They advertised it as “quirky”, but what I think they meant was “shitty”. I am looking into alternatives, but may just deal with it so I don’t have to move and attempt to get my money back.
Anyway, we hit the town running, leaving the apartment almost immediately to start walking around the city. We grabbed an early dinner and then made our way through the neighborhoods, from Alfama to Bairro Alto, drinking our way around the city, and stopping in for various pastries and coffees. I have to admit to feeling a little queasy by the time we got back to our apartment, but am much better this morning. Today we will wander around exploring what seems to be a super charming city. Stay tuned for photos.
Last night I had a yummy goodbye dinner with Emre and Karpat at a place near the Galata Tower called Kivahan. It has been so nice just hanging out with them the last few days, they are such great guys. With everything that is going on in Turkey politically, they are looking into their options for living elsewhere, and I have been pushing hard for New York of course. It would be great to have them close-by.
After bidding goodbye to Emre this morning, I made my way to the airport with very little hassle, catching a taxi and getting here in plenty of time. Which was good, because everything took longer than it should have at the airport. Not that I expect to be flying business class through IST on Turkish Airlines again, but every part of the experience is sub-standard. I can’t imagine the process is worse in economy, unless perhaps they are tortured or humiliated there for good measure. First, there are no signs to tell you that, unlike every other airport I have ever been in, the check-in for business class is not next to where the economy check in for your flight is, but about a football field away, and not marked on any departures / check-in sign. Once I found it and finally checked in, I was told to go to through the special passport control line for business class that is supposed to be much faster and smoother, but it was actually about 4 times slower than if I had simply gone to the normal passport control line. By the way, then one has to go through a second bag screening (in addition to the one entering the airport, WTF). After that, I made my way to the Turkish Airlines business class lounge, which although nicely designed has rather crap food and service. If I had paid anything close to full price for this ticket, I would be bummed.
Anyway, I am off to Portugal (my first time) where I will spend the next 10 days before finally heading back to NYC. I have two friends from Amsterdam, Xavier and Stijn, who will meet me for a few days in Lisbon, and next weekend Arnaud will come from London to meet me in Porto.
Emre, Karpat and I were in the car yesterday (a very rainy day) on our way to breakfast, and when I pulled up the map, I noticed that we were near to an area called Üsküdar. I told my friend that it reminded me of a funny old Earth Kitt song called Uska Dara, that was ostensibly about a little town in Turkey, but that I was pretty sure it was all made up and that the language she was speaking was not a language at all, but just some foreign-sounding gibberish that was meant to stand in for one.
Well, it turns out that almost all of what she was saying in the spoken parts were actual Turkish words (even if some of the translations were made up). And the sung parts (both words and music) are from very well known folk songs. Emre and Karpat knew all the words and were singing along. For some reason, this whole scenario tickled me to no end.
Since Emre had to work again yesterday, Karpat and I went to Sultanahmet to hit the spice market and walk around a little. Since I spent about a month in Istanbul a couple of years ago, I don’t really feel pressure to see all the tourist stuff I did back then, and can now just sort of wander aimlessly in some of these areas and take pleasure in that. The markets were surprisingly empty on a Sunday morning, I remember before they were so packed it was difficult to walk through at all. We meandered a bit, picked up some spices, had lunch at a lokanta, crossed the bridge, ate some sweets, took the tunel and metro back to Emre’s place, then drove from Şişli over to the Asian side where Karpat lives. Emre met us over at Karpat’s, and they made me a lovely dinner (which included some yummy new things I had not tried before, like Pastirma). Today (weather permitting) we will take a small road trip somewhere, but even if we don’t, I am really enjoying just hanging out with my friends.
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Unfortunately Emre had to work most of the day yesterday, so Karpat and I took a little drive north to the edge of The Black Sea. We passed through a couple of run down old fishing villages, and I had to wonder: If these places are hundreds of years old, why is there so little obvious older architecture? Karpat told me that the Turks are not big on saving their history, and that the Ottoman empire built largely in wood rather than stone, so I suppose these are part of the story. One of the places we passed through, Garipçe, has a current and messy story all its own related to the nearby bridge construction. We also saw the ruins of the fort at Remeli Feneri, which were quite atmospheric.
It was incredibly windy yesterday, so much so that Karpat and I were almost blown into the sea from the cliffs a couple of times. But the Bosphorus and the edge of the Black Sea were nevertheless quite beautiful in this weather. Later Karpat showed me a glitzy new mall with an interesting design, and we finally met up with Emre later for a brief meal before heading to bed.
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And just like that, you are in another country, on another continent (the airport is on the European side after all).
It has never been a huge hassle for me to get a visa for Turkey, but now it is even easier. You used to have to get it on arrival at the airport, necessitating a wait in a separate line from passport control before entering the country. Now you can just get it online and go straight to passport control.
After I go through passport control and baggage claim, I was greeted outside by my good friend Emre, who was a total sweetheart coming to pick me up. We headed into town and met up with his partner Karpat, then went for dinner and a walk around Istanbul, as I tried mostly in vain to fight off my jetlag. But even through the mental fog caused by that, it was striking (after the last few weeks) how much more even this place resembles the culture I grew up in than India does. I was really noticing how neatly laid out the buildings and sidewalks and roads were, how quiet it seemed in the absence of excessive honking, and how fresh the air felt.
It was so nice to see Emre and Karpat again, but by 9pm I was falling asleep standing up, so hit the hay early. This morning I feel much refreshed, and ready to attack (in a totally non-violent way, of course).
So my flight to Istanbul was set to take off at the ungodly hour of 6:40am. That meant I would need to be to the airport by 4:40am, which meant I would have to leave Malabar Hill at around 4 or so. Nik helpfully used an app on his phone to reserve a cab for that hour, and we returned to chatting and drinking and celebrating Rittu’s pre-birthday. Around 11pm, I got notice that my flight would be delayed until 8:30, so Nik called and changed my cab to 6am. When I woke up this morning, I got packed, got ready, and was down in front of the house just after 6am, but no cab. I didn’t want to wake Nik so I just walked up the hill a bit to one of the busier streets and within a few minutes I had a cab.
It is a pretty amazing experience to be whizzing through the streets of Mumbai so early in the morning. Whereas the traffic is usually pretty crazy, tight, and slow-moving, at this hour one travels at dizzying speed. We reached the airport in something like 25 minutes. It was still dark out and I have to say the new airport looks pretty stunning at night, all lit up as it is. When I first arrived at this airport a few weeks ago, I noted what a new and clean terminal it was, but I was not overly impressed with the design. Going through the departures and ticketing area is an entirely different experience, the place is really beautiful.
As I approached the check-in counter for my flight, I found out that my flight was delayed yet another hour, so I was really early. Oh well I thought, I can hangout in the business class lounge. I went through the special security screening and passport control area they reserve for business class passengers, which was about the easiest of these things I have ever gone through in my life. There were exactly zero other passengers in this line, and the whole process took about 2 minutes. I then headed over to the rather nicely appointed business lounge area where I am currently holed up writing this very post.
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I’ve been having a pretty great time in Mumbai the last few days, hanging out with Nik and Rittu, doing a little work, getting caught up with Alok, Vikram, Shumona and Xerxes, and meeting a lot of lovely new people. Most of this has revolved, naturally, around eating and drinking. I have pretty well managed to stuff myself with just about every Indian food type there is while here, and I have been loving it. Perhaps because I spent so many months here all those years ago, but this trip has felt in many ways like a homecoming. Everyone has been so welcoming, and it has been surprisingly smooth sailing getting back into the Indian swing of things.
I actually picked up a little technology work here, so if all goes well with the project, I expect that I will not be waiting another 8 years for my next visit, but will rather be back within the year. Tomorrow morning I will take off for Istanbul for a week, then Portugal, and finally back home.
A couple of weeks ago, Rittu, Ken and I went to visit Mumbai’s famed Dhobi Ghat. This is one of the major centers where laundry is done in Mumbai, and the largest operation of its kind in the world. It is partially run as a kind of collective, and we met a nice fellow at the entrance who charged us a fee (saying it would go to benefit the collective, who knows) and then guided us around for an in-depth tour. He showed us the concrete tubs where hand washing is done (and told us a little bit about how the machines are replacing/displacing the hand washers because they are faster), then took us through a number alleyways hung with colorful and matched washing. He told us about the kinds of work they do for hospitals and first washing of clothes for export when they come out of factories. The place is an amazing labyrinth, pretty fascinating, and well worth a trip when you are in Mumbai.
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