I absolutely love Fez, the city is like nothing I have ever seen in its medieval urban intensity. We were warned by all manner of person, article, and guidebook about the absolute necessity of getting a guide here, and it is pretty easy to get lost if one is not careful. But the twin technologies of Google maps and GPS have rendered the absolute chaos of the medina quite manageable. While it is true that not every nook and cranny are mapped, most of the main ones are, and even if you get lost you can eventually reorient yourself with a little patience. We got lost only a couple of times, and that was only due to the limitations of the “blue dot” not always being accurately placed on the map (the limitations of GPS accuracy in a few hard to reach areas. And it never lasted more than a few minutes. The medina and its souks are such a fascinating place, the chaos and history and otherworldly quality of it all.
The riad we are staying in was an excellent choice, it is called Al Bartal. The staff are so nice, the service so wonderful, and the place is so beautiful, it really feels like you are transported to another time. If I had any complaint about the place, it would only be that someone has sadistically stationed a loud bird in the courtyard whose incessant chirping and whistling is enough to make me want to put a cat in the cage with it or turn it into a pastilla.
We have two more days here, and much left to explore I am happy to say. Check out the pics (so far) below.