Josh are I are leaving in a few hours to fly to San Juan (via one hour layover in Miami). At least, we hope we are going. There was a bit of a snowstorm last night, but things looks pretty clear now. It is 84 and sunny in San Juan right now. We will be there for 10 glorious days, exploring the main island and Vieques and soaking up the sun and beach and old new world charm of San Juan.
After a surprisingly quick seeming 13 hour car ride, we are back in Indianapolis. It was interesting being in South Carolina for the first time in about 15 years. My experience living (mostly) in California since that time has sharpened by far my impressions of South Carolina. Perhaps it is just that I am older now and more sensitive to it, or perhaps it was my greater interest in history and culture, but what stood out for me in much greater relief than ever before was the relation of slavery to this part of the US. It was everywhere. In the Rice Museum in Georgetown and the words of the docent taking us around; in the townhouses and mansions of Charelston; In the gardens of Brookgreen and its Lowcountry Museum; in the statues honoring people like Strom Thurmond at the statehouse; in the words spoken by some of the residents. One realizes how much whatever wealth this part of the world once had, it was based on the ill gotten gains of slave labor. It is a past that the people here would rather forget, and yet they are bathed in its incidents every day. And unfortunately, these stains fade slowly, as evidenced by the subtle play of languange in the people of the area and in the attitudes of some. After living all those years in California, I was definitely aware of race and racism within the culture, but of a more multicultural kind. It was never so obviously about a binary white/black division. Not true in South Carolina. Sure, this trip was as much about a vacation at the beach, appreciating nothing more (or less) than the beauty of the natural environment and having a great time with my family. But it was also a valuable reminder of the original sin that formed a large part of the identity of this nation, and an entreaty to move forward and heal the wounds that are still not quite closed.
On vacation with the family in South Carolina, whose current climate reminds me a lot of southern India. It is really hot and humid here, much more so than I remember from my childhood trips here so many years ago. The other thing that I realize is that, as great as it is to be with my family, I am just not a huge fan of hanging out on a hot and sweaty beach getting bronzed. Also, something about the weather makes me eat much more than I normally would (and something about SC makes me eat more unhealthily) and I am feeling a little portly. I will probably try to take a cultural excursion tomorrow with a trip to nearby Charleston. Still, if you care to see the family album (with several pics of my adorable niece and nephew) click here.
Tomorrow morning at about 6am, I will depart with my family via car for a 12 hour trip to the beach in South Carolina, where we will be for the next week. Expect lots of stories about sunburn, fried fish, southern culture, the ocean, and of course hushpuppies.
Yes, that is Italian not Spanish. But somehow over the last day our so we have found ourselves to be on the Italian Riviera within the Mayan Riviera. The hotel we are staying in and the one next door are both overrun with Italians, owners and guests and restaurants. They seem to love the sun much more than I do, slathering on the olive oil and laying for many hours baking in it. And the restaurant next door, although serving excellent food, is run with all the capriciousness of a New York nightclub, especially when deciding which guests will be given the “honor” of being served.
Today is the last day of our “vacation”. It seems odd to call it that, at least for me, since I have more or less been without work for the past year and a half. I have nothing I need to vacation from, and so the project of relaxing and recharging in preparation for going back to a grueling work schedule is pretty meaningless. So for me it is the last day of our voyage.