The above means “goodbye” in Arabic, at least according to this page. We have had a fantastic time in Fez, and based on what we have done, I leave you with the following recommendations:
DO stay at the Riad Al Bartal, they are fabulous in every way. The staff was amazing and helpful, the food good, the atmosphere wonderful and the location perfect (just inside the medina, easy to get around inside by foot or outside by taxi).
DONT get a massage or go to the spa/hammam at the nearby Palais Faraj, they have no idea what they are doing and it is a waste of money.
DO have dinner in the Dar Roumana, it is a glorious setting, and the food was great if a little pricey.
DO have dinner in the Cafe Fez at the Jardin des Biehn. It is more French than Moroccan, but the meal was superb and reasonable.
DO visit the crumbing Palais Gloui, it is quite interesting to see the faded glory of this place.
DO explore the medina and souks, and DO use google maps with GPS on your phone if possible. I can’t say enough about the wonder that is this medieval maze of a city. DO knock on various Riad doors to see courtyards and rooms whenever possible. This place is magical.
DONT underestimate the time it will take you to wind your way through the maze. Whatever google or a guide says, add on about half as much extra time.
DONT bother with a guide (especially if you have maps and connectivity). This was recommended by everyone and we are very happy we did not bother with one. It was exciting to explore on our own.
In a couple of hours we head off for Chefchaouen and Tetouan….