We hit Lisboa in earnest yesterday, criss-crossing the city with a few small errands in mind that framed our direction and day. I needed to replace my shoes that had a hole in them, and Xavier wanted to go back to this hipster barbershop (filled with cute guys) where he had gotten a good cut last time he was in Lisboa. We hopped on the storied 28 tram and took it to its terminus, at which point we thought we would stay on as it started its route again, but the very surly driver yelled at everyone to “Get. Out.”. From there, we meandered down through a park, and through the neighborhoods of Principe Real, Biarro Alto, and Chiado. Then we attempted to find Xavier’s barbershop and finally did after a fair amount of wandering around, but it was not open yet, so we went to find my shoe store to replace my shoes before returning to the barbershop. We all decided to get beard trims or shaves, and took a seat to await our turn. We figured it would be quick because there were two guys working there, no one in line, and the guys in the chairs seemed very close to being done. But no, these haircut guys are like monks performing a slow motion ritual, and we waited perhaps an hour before the first of us got into the chair, and I think we sat in that shop for an insane total of about 3 hours. That said, my beard trim and neck shave was heavenly, and we all felt duly pampered by the time we left. We then made our way to a local churrasqueira for a late and meaty lunch, at which point it began raining and we hopped from coffee shop to store to awning before finally making it back to the apartment a bit soaked.
We took a nap and then headed out to dinner at around 10 pm, because this is a very late culture and nothing gets started until quite late. And after that we made a tour of the entire length of the Rua da Barraca and its many small bars before finding a taxi and heading back to Alfama where we are staying.