I made a walking tour of the old heart of the town yesterday, known as the Pelourinho. It has an amazing feel, with a somewhat crumbling but beautiful Portuguese colonial architecture that is the oldest in Brazil, dating as far back as the 1500s (I think). The hilly landscape adds to the charm, despite the sweltering heat that had me dripping with sweat most of the way. There are an awesome number of street touts, the most I have seen since leaving India, and a massive number of musical instrument shops. I made stops in several museums and churches, the most amazing of which (for me) was the insanely inspiring carved Baroque wooden interior of the Igreja Sao Francisco (no pictures allowed!) and the most disappointing of which was the Museu Afro-Brasileiro (which had wonderful artifacts but poor organization and poorer description of the development of Candomblé, which I wanted to know more about).